Chapter 12
("Medicine Buttes" — Roosevelt returns to Elkhorn — Maunders threatens Roosevelt — Packard's stage-line — The dress rehearsal — Another bubble bursts.)

It was underneath the stars, the little peeking stars,
That we lay and dreamed of Eden in the hills:
We were neither sad nor gay, but just wondering, while we lay,
What a mighty lot of space creation fills.

Our fire was just a spark; dot of red against the dark,
And around the fire an awful lot of night.
The purple, changing air was as quiet as a prayer,
And the moon came up and froze the mountains white.

Henry Herbert Knibbs

The "boss" of Elkhorn Ranch, meanwhile, oblivious of the heat which he was generating in the Marquis's Prime Minister, was taking his slow course northeastward across Wyoming to the Bad Lands.   It was long and weary traveling across the desolate reaches of burnt prairie.   The horses began to droop.   At last, in some heavy sand-hills east of the Little Beaver, one of the team pulling the heavily laden wagon played out completely, and they had to put the toughest of the saddle ponies in his place.   Night was coming on fast as they crossed the final ridge and came in sight of as singular a bit of country as any of them had ever seen.   Scattered over a space not more than three quarters of a mile square were countless isolated buttes of sandstone, varying in height from fifteen to fifty feet.   Some of them rose as sharp peaks or ridges or as connected chains, but the greater number by far were topped with diminutive table-lands, some thirty feet across, some seventy, some two hundred.   The sides were perpendicular, and were cut and channeled by the weather into most curious caves and columns and battlements and spires.   Here and there ledges ran along the faces of the cliffs and eerie protrusions jutted out from the corners.   Grave pine-trees rose loftily among the strange creations of water and wind set in a desert of snow-white sand.   It was a beautiful and fantastic place and they made their camp there.

The moon was full and the night clear.   In an angle of a cliff they built a roaring pine-log fire whose flames, leaping up the gray wall, made wild sport of the bold corners and strange-looking escarpments of the rock.   Beyond the circle that the firelight brought luridly to life, the buttes in the moonlight had their own still magic.   Against the shining silver of the cliffs the pines showed dark and somber, and when the branches stirred, the bright light danced on the ground making it appear like a sheet of molten metal.

It was like a country seen in a dream.

The next morning all was changed.   A wild gale was blowing and rain beat about them in level sheets.   A wet fog came and went and gave place at last to a steady rain, as the gale gave place to a hurricane.   They spent a miserable day and night shifting from shelter to shelter with the shifting wind; another day and another night.   Their provisions were almost gone, the fire refused to burn in the fierce downpour, the horses drifted far off before the storm....

"Fortunately," remarked Roosevelt later, "we had all learned that, no matter how bad things were, grumbling and bad temper can always be depended upon to make them worse, and so bore our ill-fortune, if not with stoical indifference, at least in perfect quiet."

The third day dawned crisp and clear, and once more the wagon lumbered on.   They made camp that night some forty miles southwest of Lang's.   They were still three days from home, three days of crawling voyaging beside the fagged team.   The country was monotonous, moreover, without much game.

"I think I'd like to ride in and wake the boys up for breakfast," remarked Merrifield.

"Good!" exclaimed Roosevelt.   "I'll do it with you."

Merrifield argued the matter.   Roosevelt had been in the saddle all day and it was eighty miles to the Maltese Cross.

"I'm going with you.   I want to wind up this trip myself," said Roosevelt, and there the argument ended.

At nine o'clock they saddled their tough little ponies, and rode off out of the circle of firelight.   The October air was cool in their faces as they loped steadily mile after mile over the moonlit prairie.

Roosevelt later described that memorable ride.

The hoof-beats of our horses rang out in steady rhythm through the silence of the night, otherwise unbroken save now and then by the wailing cry of a coyote.   The rolling plains stretched out on all sides of us, shimmering in the clear moonlight; and occasionally a band of spectral-looking antelope swept silently away from before our path.   Once we went by a drove of Texan cattle, who stared wildly at the intruders; as we passed they charged down by us, the ground rumbling beneath their tread, while their long horns knocked against each other with a sound like the clattering of a multitude of castanets.   We could see clearly enough to keep our general course over the trackless plain, steering by the stars where the prairie was perfectly level and without landmarks; and our ride was timed well, for as we galloped down into the valley of the Little Missouri the sky above the line of the level bluffs in our front was crimson with the glow of the unrisen sun.

Roosevelt rode down to Elkhorn a day or two after his return to the Maltese Cross, and found Sewall and Dow busy cutting the timber for the new house, which was to stand in the shade of a row of cottonwood trees overlooking the broad, shallow bed of the Little Missouri.   They were both mighty men with the axe.   Roosevelt worked with them for a few days.   He himself was no amateur, but he could not compete with the stalwart backwoodsmen.

One evening he overheard Captain Robins ask Dow what the day's cut had been.   "Well, Bill cut down fifty-three," answered Dow.   "I cut forty-nine, and the boss," he added dryly, not realizing that Roosevelt was within hearing—"the boss he beavered down seventeen."

Roosevelt remembered the tree-stumps he had seen gnawed down by beavers, and grinned.

Roosevelt found that the men from Maine were adapting themselves admirably to their strange surroundings.   Dow was already an excellent cowhand.   Sewalls abilities ran in other directions.

We are hewing away at the stuff for the house (Sewall wrote his brother on October 19th).   It is to be 60 ft.   long and 30 wide, the walls 9 ft.   high, so you can see it is quite a job to hew it out on three sides, but we have plenty of time.   Theodore wants us to ride and explore one day out of each week and we have to go to town after our mail once a week, so we don't work more than half the time.   It is a good job and a big one, but we have lots of time between this and spring.

Meanwhile, he stubbornly insisted that the country was not adapted to cattle.

I think I already see a good many drawbacks to this country (he wrote).   The Stock business is a new business in the Bad Lands and I can't find as anybody has made anything at it, yet they all expect to.   I think they have all lost as yet.   Talked the other day with one of the biggest Stock men here.   He is hired by the month to boss.   He said nobody knew whether there was anything in it or not, yet.   He had been here three years and sometimes thought there was not much in it, said it was very expensive and a great many outs to it and I believe he told the truth.   Out about town they blow it up, want to get everybody at it they can.   We shall see in time.   Can tell better in the spring after we see how they come in with their cattle.

The truth was, Bill knew the ways of cattle, for he had run cattle in the open in Maine under climatic conditions not dissimilar to those of the Dakota country.   His experience had taught him that when a cow is allowed to have one calf after another without special feeding, she is more than likely to die after the third calf.   He knew also that when a cow calves in cold weather, she is likely to freeze her udder and be ruined, and lose the calf besides.

"Those cows will either have to be fed," he said to Roosevelt, "or they'll die."

Roosevelt took Sewall's pessimism with a grain of salt.   "No one hereabouts seems to think there's any danger of that sort," he said.   "I think, Bill, you're wrong."

"I hope I am," said Bill; and there the matter dropped.

It was while Roosevelt was working at Elkhorn that further rumors of trouble came from the party of the Marquis.   Maunders insisted that he had a prior claim to the shack in which Sewall and Dow were living and all the land that lay around it, and demanded five hundred dollars for his rights.   Roosevelt had from the first scouted the claim, for Maunders had a way of claiming any shack which a hunter deserted anywhere.   Vague threats which Maunders was making filled the air, but did not greatly disturb Roosevelt.   Sewall and Dow, however, had heard a rumor which sounded authentic and might require attention.   Maunders had said that he was going to shoot Roosevelt at the next opportunity.   They passed the news on to "the boss."

This was decidedly interesting.   Maunders was known as a good shot and was well protected by the Marquis.

Roosevelt promptly saddled his horse and rode back up the river.   Maunders's shack stood on the west bank a few hundred yards from the Pyramid Park Hotel.   Roosevelt knocked on the door.   Maunders opened it.

"Maunders," said Roosevelt sharply, "I understand that you have threatened to kill me on sight.   I have come over to see when you want to begin the killing and to let you know that, if you have anything to say against me, now is the time for you to say it."

Maunders looked unhappy.   After a brief conversation it appeared that Maunders did not after all want to shoot him.   He had been "misquoted," he said.   They parted, understanding one another perfectly.

Roosevelt left Medora on October 7th, bound for New York.   He had decided, after all, not to remain aloof from the political campaign.   He deeply distrusted the Democratic Party, on the one hand, and he was enraged at the nominations of the Republican Party, on the other; but the "Mugwumps," those Republicans who, with a self-conscious high-mindedness which irritated him almost beyond words, were supporting the Democratic nominee, he absolutely despised.   Besides, it was not in him to be neutral in any fight.   He admitted that freely.   During the final weeks of the campaign he made numerous speeches in New York and elsewhere which were not neutral in the least.

By leaving Medora on the 7th of October he missed a memorable occasion, for on the following day Packard at last opened his stage-line.   The ex-baseball player had met and surmounted an array of obstacles that would have daunted anybody but a youngster on the Western frontier.   He had completed his building operations by the end of September, and by the first of October he had distributed his hostlers, his eating-house keepers, his helpers and his "middle-route" drivers, among the sixteen relay-stations that lined the wheel-tracks which the Marquis was pleased to call the "highway" to the Black Hills.   The horses which he had purchased in a dozen different places in the course of the summer were not such as to allay the trepidation of timid travelers.   They had none of them been broken to harness before Packard's agents had found them and broken them in their own casual and none too gentle fashion.   Packard would have preferred to have horses which had become accustomed to the restraining hand of man, but "harness-broke" horses where rare in that country.   Besides, they were expensive, and, with the money coming from the Marquis only in little sums, long-delayed, Packard that summer was hunting bargains.   As it was, Baron von Hoffman, who was a business man of vision and ability, was none too pleased with the mounting expenses of his son-in-law's new venture.

"How many horses have you bought?" he asked; Packard one day rather sharply.

"A hundred and sixty-six."

"How many are you using on the stage-line?"

"A hundred and sixty."

"What are you doing with the other six?"

"They're out on the line."

"Humph!" grunted the Baron in despair.   "Eating their heads off!"

What the Baron said to the Marquis is lost to history.   The family in the new house across the river from Medora had plenty of dignity and pride.   Whatever disagreements they had they kept securely within their own walls, and there was nothing but a growing querulousness in the voice of the man who held the purse-strings to reveal to the world that Baron von Hoffman was beginning to think he was laying away his money in a hole that had no bottom.   Something of that feeling seems to have been in the Marquis's own mind, for in the interviews he gave to the newspapers the words "I won't be bled" recur.

On the first of October, Packard was ready for the "dress rehearsal" of his stage-line.   That performance partook of more than the usual quantity of hazard connected with such occasions.   At every station, for instance, some or all of the six horses had to be roped, thrown, and blindfolded before they would let themselves be harnessed.   To adjust the harness was itself a ticklish undertaking and had to be done with minute regard for sensitive nerves, for if any part of it struck a horse except with the pressure of its own weight, the devil was loose again, and anything might happen.   But even when the harness was finally on the refractory backs, the work was not half done.   Still blindfolded, the horses had to be driven, pulled, pushed, and hauled by main force to their appointed places in front of the coach.   Noiselessly, one at a time, the tugs were attached to the single-tree, and carefully, as though they were dynamite, the reins were handed to the driver.   At the Moreau Station, two thirds of the way to Deadwood, all six horses, it happened were practically unbroken broncos.   The driver was on his box with Packard at his side, as they prepared to start, and at the head of each horse stood one of the station-hands.

"Ready?" asked the man at the head of the near leader.

"All set," answered the other helpers.

"Let 'er go!" called the driver.

The helpers jerked the blinds from the horses' eyes.   The broncos jumped into their collars as a unit.   As a unit, however, they surged back, as they became suddenly conscious of the horror that they dreaded most—restraint.   The off leader made a wild swerve to the right, backing toward the coach, and dragging the near leader and the near swing-horse from their feet.   The off leader, unable to forge ahead, made a wild leap for the off swing horse, and fairly crushed him to earth with his feet, himself tripping on the harness and rolling at random in the welter, his snapping hoofs flashing in every direction.   The wheel team, in the meantime was doing what Packard later described as "a vaudeville turn of its own." The near wheeler was bucking as though there were no other horse within a hundred miles; the off wheeler had broken his single-tree and was facing the coach, delivering kicks at the mêlée behind him with whole-hearted abandon and rigid impartiality.

"It was exactly the kind of situation," Packard remarked later, "that George Myers would have called 'a gol-darned panorama.'"

But the horses were not to have matters altogether their own way, for the helpers were experienced "horse-wranglers." By main strength they pulled the off leader to his place and blindfolded him, delegating one of their number to sit on his head until the snarl might be untangled.   The process was repeated with the other horses.   The damage proved to be negligible.   A few small harness straps had snapped, and a single-tree was broken.   A second trial resulted no better than the first.   After the half-crazy animals had been a second time disentangled and a third time harnessed, quivering, to the coach, the driver had his way with them.   The horses jumped forward into a wild run, thrashing the heavy coach about as a small boy might be thrashed about as the tail in "crack the whip." It was a wild ride, but they reached Spearfish with no bones broken.

"Our entrance into Deadwood was spectacular," said Packard later, "and ended in an invitation ride to Lead City with Mayor Seth Bullock at the head of the local dignitaries, riding in state inside the coach."

On the 8th of October, Packard offered the dubious joys of his stage-line for the first time to the public; and began to see a faint prospect of return on his rather extravagant investment of energy and time.   But his satisfaction died stillborn.   The Marquis's sanguine temperament had once more proved the undoing of what might have been a profitable venture.   The mail contract, which the easy-going Frenchman had thought that he had secured, proved illusory.   Packard, who had been glad to leave that part of the business to his principal, discovered, as soon as he began to inquire for the mail-bags, that what his principal had actually secured from the Postmaster-General was not a contract at all, but merely a chance to bid when the annual offers for star routes came up for bidding the following May.   It was a body blow to the putative owner of a stage-line.

Long after the last of his Deadwood coaches had been rattled to kindlings in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show, Packard told the last chapter of his connection with the Medora and Black Hills Forwarding and Transportation Company.

"No mail contract; hardly a month of earnings before winter, when there was no chance of paying operating expenses; responsible for the pay-roll, but not on it; with a private pay-roll and expenses equal to or greater than my private income; with all my cash savings gone in the preliminary expenses of putting on the line, and finally with no chance, under my contract, of getting a cent from the stage-line before that nebulous time when it had paid for itself.   The Marquis soon returned and I told him I could not consider myself bound by the contract.   The delay in providing funds I had condoned by staying with the proposition, but a mail contract which was essential in helping to pay expenses was not even a possibility for seven or more months in the future.   I stayed until another man was hired and left my duties with a grunt of relief." [Footnote 9: It was Packard's stage-line which brought Scipio le Moyne (in Owen Wister's novel) from the Black Hills to Medora to become the substitute cook of the Virginian's mutinous "outfit." The cook whom the Virginian kicked off the train at Medora, because he was too anxious to buy a bottle of whiskey, is said to have been a man named Macdonald.   He remained in the Bad Lands as cook for one of the ranches, but he was such an inveterate drinker that "Nitch" Kendley was forced to take drastic measures.   Finding him unconscious one day, just outside of Medora, he tied him hand and foot to the sagebrush.   The cook struggled twelve hours in the broiling sun before he could free himself.   Tradition has it that he did not touch another drop of liquor for three years.   End Footnote]

For Packard the failure of his venture was not a serious matter.   The Cowboy was flourishing and there was enough in all conscience to keep him occupied in his duties as Chief of Police.   But for the Marquis it was bad business.   He had, as it was, few enough honest men at his side.